Roast Descriptions and the Beginner Home Roaster
This is a guide to understanding the roasting advice given with Has
Bean’s cupping reviews. There are a lot of descriptions in the coffee
world, most of them directed at the US market. I personally feel that
they are often confusing and complicated just for the sake of it. What
I’m going to try and do here (and in the cupping notes) is make them
easier to understand, more user-friendly, and advise on how to make
them achievable for the home roaster to reproduce with their own
machine.
One thing this article will not do is give you advice on times or
profiles. Times vary wildly according to roast method, bean type,
environmental temperatures, crop age, and the list goes on. Most home
machines wont let you profile the roast (or will have a pre-set
profile). But with these guidelines I hope that you will be able to
come close to what I think is the desirable roast for each coffee we
offer. The roasting notes are provided so that the characteristics of
each individual bean are emphasised and the roast is not the primary
feature. Of course, one of the joys of home roasting is that you can
produce whatever degree of roast you want, and your tastes may prefer a
certain profile, but this guide will give you a starting point to work
from and explore the treasures within each bean. Roasting is something
that comes with experience and there are no set rules to follow. That’s
why this article has been so hard to write, so bear in mind these are
guidelines, not laws or rules written in tablets of stone.
Before we get into the descriptions there are factors to bear in
mind when roasting coffee that will have an affect on the roast.
Origin
Where the bean is from will have a major bearing on the way the
roast behaves and looks. Some origins just look different after
roasting, or look uneven. This can be due to processing (see below),
the altitude the beans were grown at, main geographical areas,
climates, soils, etc. one immediately thinks of the French concept as
referred to in wine making, of “terroir” where each crop is truly
individual. These factors really make a difference on the roast and
taste produced from the coffee.
Processing
Wet, dry, naturally dried, machine dried, decaffeinated, monsooned
and even from the rear-end of an animal (the civet cat eats the coffee
cherry, digesting the fruit and “processing” the bean, before passing
it on! Check out our Kopi Luwak). All have a bearing on the roast’s
final appearance and taste. These are all important elements to
remember when evaluating the final roast, both visually and in the cup.
For instance monsoon coffee's are picked and then placed in shed like
warehouses where the monsoon winds dry the bean. This effects the roast
and taste dramatically because the moisture content and bean structure
are changed by the process.
Length of Roast
The length of time a bean is roasted can have a profound effect on
the taste. The roast profile is very important in achieving the best
taste for each bean. Professional roasting can take around 15-20
minutes. Some “roasting curves,” or the speed and temperature at which
the roast develops, differ quite drastically, and this can affect the
final taste. This is provided more for information’s sake than anything
else, as we at Has Bean worry about this and apply our skill and
expertise in adapting the profile for each different coffee. These
roasting curves are mimicked by some of the more semi-professional home
roasters (Hottop, I-Roast and the Alpenrost).
Roast Method
It is a commonly held view that gas roasting gives a different
finish to the bean during the roasting process, when compared to
roasting with electric machines. To which one could add that hot air
roasting and drum roasting give different results too, and these are
also important factors to consider. Drum roasting tends to give more
fuller bodied roasts, but lacks the brightness that an air roaster can
give. The air roaster can also give a more matted appearance on the
bean.
Age of Green Beans
As coffee ages it loses some of its water content. As the bean
dries, its structure (taste and behaviour in the roast) changes. Of
course, this can be avoided by stocking fresh greens from a roaster who
has a large turnover of stock, and who doesn’t hold onto old stock.
Should this happen to you, then be aware that what worked when you
first bought the bean, may not work the next time, if the bean has aged
considerably.
It is also important to understand what happens when coffee is
roasted. Coffee as a green bean has no use, and is unpleasant to taste.
When roasted, coffee releases over 800 components that build up its
taste and flavours. This makes coffee one of the most complicated foods
around, and such an unique organic product.
The roasting process removes water from the green bean, makes
sugars caramelise, and sparks a series of reactions that produce those
800 components in coffee oils, either within the bean, or on darker
roasts, on the outside of the bean. These reactions also create carbon
dioxide, which in the first couple of days is present in incredibly
high levels making the cup too lively due to the CO2 in the bean (this
can vary from bean to bean, and be between 24 hours and 6 days). So a
period of rest and degassing is important if you want to get the best
from your bean. Without any carbon dioxide, coffee loses all of its
taste, as once de-gassed the carbon dioxide acts as a delivery vehicle
for the flavours, so achieving perfection is a very fine balancing act.
As a general rule, darker roasted beans tend to de-gas quicker than
lighter roasts, which will de-gas and be at their peak after a number
of days. Also, lively coffees that haven’t had long to de-gas can
sometimes be a joy in a french press or vac pot, but for an espresso
lively isn’t normally a good attribute.
During the roasting process the guidelines we will use are called
first and second “crack.” The reason I choose to use these terms over
specific times, is that from one type of roasting device to the next,
the roast time can differ from either a couple of minutes to 25
minutes. Temperature, although useful as a guide, can vary, and it is
difficult to get an exact reading between bean temperature and the
temperature of the surrounding environment of the roasting machine.
First and second crack are sure signs of roast development. First
crack is an expansion of the bean and a warming of the coffee oils,
creating an exothermic reaction, which means the beans are giving off
heat as a consequence of their expansion. This results in a popping
noise similar to that of popcorn. Second crack sounds more like a
crackle, similar to the sound of foil rattling. I’ve heard audio files
of both first and second crack, but I don’t think they are that useful,
as different beans in different machines, will all sound slightly
different. One thing to beware of is, sometimes, first and second crack
can merge into each other. It’s important to listen intently during
these stages.
Descriptions:
Into First Crack (Light Roast)
A light brown to cinnamon colour, low body and light acidity. The
beans at this stage are dry. This roast restricts the coffee’s
development and does not allow it to reach its full potential. Some
moisture has been released, but the important coffee oils have yet to
develop fully. The bean is in the very early stages of being exothermic
(creating heat by expansion).
End of First Crack (light medium roast)
Medium light brown colour. The acidity has brightened and body has
increased. At this stage the bean is releasing coffee oils and becoming
much more like what we know as coffee. A suitable cupping roast. Also
suitable for many “delicate” beans.
In-between First and Second Crack (medium roast)
Medium brown colour. The acidity continues to increase and the body
becomes more noticeable. At this stage the bean is mostly dry. A
popular roast for “delicate” beans, suitable for many filter type
blends/origins, and one of my favourite roasts. Beans are still
exothermic and the structure is on the verge of expanding more as the
coffee oils heat up and second crack is on its way.
Start of Second Crack. (Medium Dark Roast)
Rich brown colour. Very small droplets of oil appear on the
surface. The acidity has slowly diminished and body is at its best.
This is the perfect roast for espresso blends and can be compared to a
Northern Italian espresso roast, as favoured by many professional
espresso blenders. Second crack has begun and the structure of the bean
is starting to break down, and from now on there is a balancing act to
perform, in order to keep the integrity of the bean as the primary
taste and the roast secondary. This is my favourite roast for espresso,
and although it is often described as a Northern Italian roast, in our
new easy world of descriptions, we will call it a medium Dark Roast.
Well into Second crack. (Dark Roast)
The bean is a deep brownish/black shiny colour. The bean has spots
of oil or is completely oily. Delicacies are lost and the roast taste
begins to increase and aroma begins to diminish. This roast can give
certain beans real body, when used correctly. When we say well into
second crack, I guess we are talking anything from 20 seconds onwards.
In the roast descriptions I will try to give some indication of time.
Fully into Second Crack (Exceptionally Dark)
Black beans covered with oils. All subtleties are gone and aroma is
reduced further. This roast is characteristic of Southern Italian
roasts and of American espresso roasts. The roast has become the
primary taste for sure, and the bean’s characteristics have been
completely demolished. There are very few beans that stand up well to
this kind of roast and it should be used with extreme care.